Travelogue-1

After an overnight journey via train (it took about 9hrs), we reached Bakhtiyarpur (on Delhi-Howrah main line) at 6.30 am on 22nd Dec. After some bargaining, two cars were hired to take us to Rajgir, 54 kilometers away. We checked in @ Triptee’s Hotel that offers good rooms at budget rates. However, it’s better to have your meals at the restaurants located nearby as this hotel’s service is quite sloppy. Two Jain temples located at a walking distance from the hotel can be seen at your own convenience. One, a Jain Swetambar temple, has even a residential unit for the followers of the sect. The other one has a statue of Buddha in black marble and several ancient statuettes (a glimpse above) unearthed from excavations and fixed on the walls of a gallery (though the security is practically non-existent and I think adequate care should be taken to save these from being plundered).

After our check-in, we got fresh and then tongas were booked to take us to sightseeing. Our first stop was Maniyar Math. This place has a cylindrical shrine in whose interiors lies a statue of Goddess Manasa (a glimpse of the roof of this temple below). A dark passage leads one to the edges, after which a deep hollow space is there, the deity lying on the other side of the wall (devotees offer their prayers and throw coins on the earth beneath). Our guide told us that after making your wishes to the Goddess, while coming out, you have to step backwards facing the deity and you should not turn your back to her. There are three round-shaped wells (below) of immense depth in the compound of Maniyar Math. Legend has it that whenever the kingdom was under threat, King Bimbisara performed yagna asking Goddess Manasa for her blessings. These three wells were filled with ghee, milk and incense to please the goddess. Once the goddess was pleased, she appeared and blessed the king, thereby giving him divine strength to defend his kingdom.

Our next stop was Viswa Shanti Stupa on Mount Ratnagiri (timings: 9 am-1 pm, 3-5 pm). The Japanese Nipponza Myohoji sect built this stupa. A chair car lift would take you to the top of the hill. However, while taking your seat on this chair car, you need to be alert as you have to sit in motion (the car doesn’t stop). The same applies when you get down. Though attendants are there to help you, you may injure yourself if you are not careful. The Viswa Shanti Stupa is a massive structure in white marble that has four gold statues of Buddha in four different postures – reminiscent of the birth, enlightenment, teachings and death of Buddha. The pagoda styled temple at this place is also worth a visit. We spent about 2 hours atop the hill, clicking merrily the scenic views, enjoying the natural beauty and wondering how this place would have looked ages ago.

After our descent, we had our lunch at the restaurant located at the entrance. On our way back, we stopped at the ruins of Bimbisar jail where king Ajatsastru kept his father, Bimbisara, under imprisonment. However, nothing more than a mere boundary of stones, about 2/2.5 feet high, exists at present at this site. Our next stop was the famous hot springs. It is believed that the "Saptarni Caves” are the source behind these hot springs. Though separate bathing places exist for men and women, the place is very ill maintained and dirty. It resembles more like a community bathing place where all and sundry come to bath and wash their clothes. I took the stairs down to the main kund called the Brahmakund where the temperature of water is around 45 degree centigrade. However, I just dipped a foot of mine and hurried back as the area was packed with men dressed in their bathing gears (I could only see the heads of these men on the surface of water but scarcely water itself!!!). Thus our first day excursion at Rajgir ended.

Photo courtesy: Phalguni Banerjee